By Anita Khatri, Luxury expert and consultant, Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie, Geneva, Switzerland [FHH]

Numerous watch exhibitions are held worldwide every year, each following the other in quick succession. While it’s a dream for watch enthusiasts to attend every exhibition, it’s not practical. However, there are renowned exhibitions that stand out, and one such event on the horizon is “Watches and Wonders 2024,” which begins in Switzerland on April 9. It is the largest annual trade show for the Swiss Watch Industry. Alongside this major event, numerous other shows are scattered throughout Geneva, with more than 150 brands exhibiting in the city. It’s one of the rare weeks each year when much of the industry converges on a single town. This gathering serves as a beacon for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and connoisseurs globally, eagerly anticipating the unveiling of horological marvels in Geneva. This prestigious event transcends borders, not only highlighting Switzerland’s renowned craftsmanship but also showcasing the innovative prowess of watchmakers from Germany, Japan, the UK, France, and beyond. Every year, new participants vie eagerly for a booth or stall at this esteemed venue to showcase their watchmaking skills. It’s a celebration of timeless artistry, where traditional techniques seamlessly merge with cutting-edge technology, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of global watchmaking excellence.
Amidst the myriad masterpieces, to start with, presenting five watch brands. Let’s explore these brands in detail.


Introducing the Grand Lady Kalla, a highly original chapter in jewellery watches designed to be worn in multiple ways. This creation reflects the Maison’s rich history of jewellery and pendant watches, brought to life through meticulous savoir-faire. The timepiece features a mantle of light, adorned with 57 emerald-cut diamonds on the watch, complemented by diamonds, Akoya pearls, and onyx pearls on the pendant. This high-jewellery and versatile timepiece boasts 268 diamonds totaling over 46 carats. At the pinnacle of creativity, the Grand Lady Kalla is a fusion of a watch and a tassel sautoir that can be styled in four different ways, showcasing creativity at its finest.

The enduring bond between Vacheron Constantin and women has been forged throughout the Maison’s uninterrupted activity since its establishment in 1755. From its early years, the manufacturer has nurtured creativity infused with elegance, harmonising fine craftsmanship in the realm of Haute Joaillerie. The Grand Lady Kalla now adds a dazzling new chapter to this tradition. Drawing inspiration from the iconic Kalla introduced in 1980 – itself a successor to the Kallista unveiled in 1979 – the new timepiece offers various ways of wearing it. A luminous treasure crafted, this model exemplifies Vacheron Constantin’s creative freedom and expertise in setting and pairing gems. This newly introduced Grand Lady Kalla pays homage to its inspiring name, derived from the Greek word “Kallista,” meaning “the most beautiful.” From its initial sketch in the design studio to the final polishing operation, this new creation embodies a wealth of superlatives. The 57 facets of the emerald-cut diamonds chosen for this piece highlight their crystal-clear clarity. The dial, slightly slimmed down to reflect contemporary tastes, showcases meticulous work by the master gem-setter, who has adorned it with modernised prongs. These prongs, reduced to a minimum to provide space for the hands, are triangular on the bracelet and case middle to accentuate the stones, while pyramid-shaped ones form Maison’s iconic Maltese cross, sparkling in the light. The sautoir necklace, featuring onyx, diamonds, and Akoya pearl tassels selected for their lustre and roundness, creates a captivating interplay between Art Deco and the 21st century. Featuring both a watch and a sautoir necklace, the Grand Lady Kalla presents four original ways to wear them, inviting a playful and contemporary transition from wrist to neckline and back. This versatility echoes the creative legacy of Vacheron Constantin spanning over two and a half centuries. An example of this expertise is seen in the 1924 ladies’ pendant watch with a removable fastening system, transforming it into a brooch adorned with rubies, emeralds, onyx, and diamonds. A century later, the Maison has expanded on this transformability, firmly embedding it in the modern era. The Grand Lady Kalla creates a jewellery dialogue between a diamond-set watch and a sautoir necklace blending diamonds with Akoya pearls and contrasting onyx beads. The sautoir can also accommodate the watch, evoking the elegant gestures of the early 20th century when women checked the time by touching their sautoirs. To ensure seamless integration with contemporary styling, the master artisans of the manufacturer have applied their expertise, enabling effortless transformation of the Grand Lady Kalla without the need for tools. The Watch face has just Hours & Minutes hands and is powered by a Quartz 1212 movement. To conclude, Vacheron Constantin watches blend technical precision with artistic elegance, born from geometric designs and a touch of soulfulness.




Firstly one has to understand the marvellous Duometre concept by the Watchmaker for Watchmakers–JAEGER-LECOULTRE. The brand’s innovative Dual-Wing concept, born from the complexities of the Chronograph complication, incorporates two distinct gear trains within a single mechanism. One gear train is devoted to managing complications, while the other focuses on precise time measurement. Linked by a shared regulating organ, these two gear trains operate seamlessly together, delivering unmatched performance and accuracy, as showcased by the rare 1/6th of a second indication. Watches & Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a new generation of Duometre timepieces, including a reinterpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase). Notably, this is the first Duometre model offered in steel, featuring a striking blue dial and a new case design that infuses a contemporary essence into its timeless and distinctive style. Highlighting the precision of the calibre, a notable feature of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire dial is the seconde foudroyante hand, elegantly swirling within a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Completing a full revolution in just one second (in contrast to a ‘standard’ seconds hand that takes 60 seconds), the foudroyante hand, with six ‘jumps’ per rotation, enables the observation of intervals as precise as one-sixth of a second. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to precision extends beyond timekeeping accuracy to encompass the aesthetic beauty and meticulous finishes of their designs. On the mesmerising deep blue dial of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the elongated and finely crafted hands are a hallmark of all Duometre timepieces. The symmetrical layout, featuring three sub-dials forming an inverted pyramid, is another signature element. At 3 o’clock, a sub-dial displays the time with applied Arabic numerals marking the cardinal hours, while the sub-dial at 9 o’clock showcases the date and moon phase against a celestial blue backdrop. Nestled below them at 6 o’clock is the second foudroyante sub-dial, completing the harmonious composition. The opaline main dial exudes a soft glow and a sense of visual depth, typical of this decorative technique. Below, the lower section of the dial features a sunray-brushed finish, adding a dynamic element to the design. In a refined touch, the two power reserve indicators stand out against this sunrayed background with an opaline arc, adding further distinction and elegance to the dial. Drawing inspiration from historic timepieces with sector dials, each broad ring surrounding the sub-dials on the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire reflects this classic aesthetic. The convex curve of the dial’s perimeter closely mirrors the contour of the glass-box crystal that safeguards it. Additionally, the sub-dials are subtly recessed into the dial’s surface, enhancing the overall visual depth and adding a captivating dimension to the watch’s design. The Maison’s dedication to precision is also evident in the meticulous finishing of the movement, visible through the transparent crystal case-back. The intricately open-worked design of much of the calibre serves both aesthetic and technical purposes. Aesthetically, it offers a captivating view deep into the intricate mechanism, showcasing the craftsmanship and complexity of the watch. The bridges of the movement are adorned with sunrayed Geneva stripes, creating a visual harmony across the entire expanse of the mechanism. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces an entirely new case design for the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, drawing inspiration from Maison’s 19th-century savonette pocket watches. This contemporary interpretation features rounded contours that are not only visually appealing but also highly tactile. The term “savonette” refers to a small disc of soap with rounded edges that fits comfortably in the palm of one’s hand, a concept elegantly expressed in the new Duometre case. Its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel further enhance this tactile quality. The redesigned crown, with deep and rounded notches, adds to the joy of handling the watch. The case’s highly polished lugs are the only elements with sharp lines, emphasising the fusion of modern elegance with traditional craftsmanship. The 42.5 mm diameter case of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire offers a blend of polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces, creating a captivating interplay of light with every movement. Coupled with its opaline blue dial and steel construction, this reinterpretation of the timepiece exudes a contemporary charm while maintaining technical sophistication. Powering this watch is the manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381, renowned for its precision and reliability. Its impressive array of functions includes hour, minute, central seconds, 1/6th of a second measurement, moon phases, date display, and two power reserves of 50 hours each, ensuring optimal performance and convenience for the wearer.




In 2014, Montblanc introduced the Orbis Terrarum, (which comes from the Latin term for “circuit of the world”) a beautifully crafted and reasonably priced world-timer featuring an in-house world-time module. It featured a convenient pusher on the case’s left side at the 8 o’clock position for easy adjustment while travelling and utilised stacked, rotating dials to indicate, at a glance, whether it was day or night in a specific time zone. This timepiece has been revamped, and we’re now exploring its latest iteration, newly released in Watches & Wonders2024. The Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum Around the World in 80 Days offers wearers a captivating global journey inspired by a literary classic. The narrative of this Montblanc timepiece traces back to 1872 and Jules Verne’s renowned novel, “Around the World in 80 Days.” This timeless story, brimming with intrigue and adventure, has captivated imaginations across generations for over 150 years. Crafted in stainless steel with a diameter of 43mm, this masterpiece is designed to be the perfect companion for adventurers on their global journeys. It features an in-house world-time complication that allows wearers to effortlessly track 24 time zones with just a glance. The time is elegantly displayed on a multi-layered dial that rotates along with the movement mechanism. This dial features a world map as viewed from the North Pole, accentuated by a gold-coloured transfer technique for certain indications. Key cities along the journey—such as San Francisco, New York, Queenstown, Yokohama, Hong Kong, Calcutta, Bombay, London, Aden, Suez, and Brindisi—are denoted by gold dots, while the route itself is outlined with 80 gold dashes. The names of cities representing the 24 time zones encircle the map in white, with London, the starting point, highlighted in gold. Completing the world map motif are hands inspired by those found on 19th-century pocket watches. Every aspect of the timepiece pays homage to the iconic journey around the world, extending from the intricately designed dial to the caseback and even the strap lining. The titanium caseback is adorned with a 3D laser engraving that vividly captures the majestic and faithful elephant Kiouni, symbolising the transportation between Kholby and Allahabad in the novel. This engraving adds colour, depth, and realism, further enhancing the storytelling aspect of the watch. In addition to the depiction of the elephant Kiouni, the caseback showcases a rich tapestry of imagery that encapsulates key elements of the journey. These include the majestic Allahabad Fort, representing one of India’s revered cities, a Mongolian steamboat pivotal in Fogg and Passepartout’s voyage between Italy and India, the traditional Japanese temple Benten Yokohama encountered along the way, and a locomotive from the Great Peninsular Railway that traversed the Indian landscapes. The adventure extends to the lining of the strap, where embossed Chinese coins and Boteh leaves, discovered during the 80-day journey, further embellish the narrative woven into every detail of the timepiece. The timepiece is driven by the MB 29.20 automatic calibre, which includes a Manufacture world-time complication and provides an approximate power reserve of 42 hours. It has a Stainless steel case with a polished and satin finish.

After setting the reference city to the top position by pressing the pusher at eight o’clock, the user simply needs to activate it. The hour and minute hands will then synchronise automatically to display the time in the selected city. Additionally, a day/night indicator operates through a rotating disc, transitioning from light blue (representing daylight hours) to dark blue (signifying nighttime). This feature offers a visual representation of the sun’s movement across the globe, enhancing the overall functionality of the timepiece. Limited to just 360 pieces, this haute horlogerie timepiece stands as a testament to Montblanc’s mastery in creating intuitive and practical complications within a modern fine watchmaking approach. It beautifully captures the spirit of adventure shared by Maison and Jules Verne’s renowned novel, showcasing Montblanc’s expertise in merging innovation with a timeless narrative.




Watches & Wonders 2024…TAG Heuer announced its new version of the Carrera Skipper chronograph, featuring a case crafted from 18K 5N rose gold. This follows last year’s successful launch of the Carrera Skipper in steel. This timepiece maintains the iconic ‘glassbox’ design introduced in early 2023 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph. Powered by the Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-06) in-house calibre, tailored for regatta timing, the Skipper in gold combines elegance with functionality. The 39mm case, meticulously finished with brushed and polished surfaces, adds a touch of sophistication while preserving the watch’s practicality as a sailing timepiece and features a unique ‘curved flange’ dial for optimal readability, crucial during regatta moments. In keeping with its 18K 5N rose gold case, the latest Skipper carries applied, 18K 5N rose gold-plated hour markers that follow the line of the dial’s curved flange. The colour scheme is with a sea-blue main dial, contrasting subdials in ‘Intrepid Teal’ and a regatta counter in three distinct colours, reminiscent of the original Skipper’s design. There’s an additional seconds indicator at 6 o’clock, with a Date window neatly incorporated. The Skipper’s tricolour 15-minute countdown subdial mirrors the hues inspired by Intrepid’s victory in the America’s Cup, with Lagoon Green, Intrepid Teal, and Regatta Orange segments. The watch also incorporates heritage elements like triangular markers and a ‘Skipper’ nameplate, blending tradition with modernity. (In 1967, the Intrepid, a 12-metre racing yacht, won the America’s Cup for New York Yacht Club and that’s what inspired TAG Heuer to create one of the iconic watches of the time and still going on. That’s where the word “Intrepid” comes from). The transparent caseback reveals the calibre, a column wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The watch is presented on a blue textile strap with an 18K 5N rose gold pin buckle, completing its luxurious yet functional appeal. The 18K 5N rose gold Carrera Chronograph Skipper follows in the footsteps of TAG Heuer’s luxury lineup, adding a new level of collectability to their signature chronograph series. This model not only signifies luxury but also deepens TAG Heuer’s longstanding connection with the sea, a relationship that predates the creation of the original Skipper in 1968. It’s a testament to the brand’s enduring maritime heritage.


The Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas, introduced in the 1940s, is a legendary watch collection known for its iconic serpent-inspired design and unique Tubogas bracelet. This collection combines the brand’s expertise in jewellery craftsmanship with watchmaking excellence, creating timepieces that are both exquisite and distinctive. The Serpenti Tubogas watches feature serpent-shaped cases and flexible Tubogas bracelets, offering a luxurious and elegant aesthetic. These watches are highly sought after by enthusiasts and collectors for their bold design, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal. Here in Geneva, all eyes were set on the inaugural artistic collaboration with the Serpenti Tubogas collection which captures nature’s transient beauty, a theme cherished by Japanese architect Tadao Ando. The collaboration between Tadao Ando and Bulgari on the Serpenti Tubogas collection is a tribute to the fleeting beauty of nature, a theme close to Ando’s heart. His design philosophy, akin to the transformation of a snake, evolves with the seasons and light. The watches, adorned with gemstones or Mother of Pearl fragments echoing Ando’s architectural vision, capture the ephemeral yet enduring beauty of time. Each limited edition is encased in a box crafted and signed by Tadao Ando, further enhancing the collaboration’s artistic and exclusive nature. These editions, showcasing the essence of each season, will be available until spring 2025, adding a unique touch to the Serpenti Tubogas collection. The collection features four limited editions representing the seasons: Summer, Autumn, Winter and Spring. Each edition uses materials like green aventurine, tiger’s eye stone, and White and Pink Mother of Pearl for Dials respectively, to reflect the changing hues of a forest across the seasons. All variants come with a Quartz movement and are 35 mm in size, featuring a bezel adorned with 38 diamonds totalling 0.29 carats and a crown set with a Cabochon-cut matching stone. The Winter and Spring editions are available in both 135 mm and 145 mm sizes, while the other two variants are exclusively offered in 135 mm. The Summer collection is two-toned (Steel & Yellow Gold), Autumn is totally in Rose-Gold, Winter is totally in steel and the Spring is again two-toned (Steel & Rose-Gold).

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