The lowdown on runway offerings which redefined the way one perceives fashion…
By Manish Mishra
There’s much more to runway shows than just clothing. It’s a designer’s way of telling a story through clothes, music, set design, make-up and choreography, thereby transporting the audience to a whimsical and fantastical world. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel haute couture extravaganzas at the historic Grand Palais in Paris come to mind instantly. Season after season, the late designer offered a haute homage to the house founder’s life and vast body of work–from erecting a gigantic Venetian lion in the middle of the runway to launching a Chanel rocketship to creating a supermarket. Alexander McQueen’s breathtakingly stunning yet often disturbing showcases too underscored the brilliant power of storytelling replete with anthropological subtexts. Lee’s AW 1995 showcase was a commentary on the abuse of power England enacted on Scotland. Titled ‘Highland Rape’, it was one of McQueen’s earliest and most controversial outings. In his 1996 collection, ‘Dante’, he sent out a gothic Victorian collection held in a candlelit church, featuring unique denim, 18th-century-inspired corsets, and eye masks with an appliqued Jesus. Also worth mentioning is Christian Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2000, which oversaw the birth of an iconic sartorial design, the brand’s ‘Newspaper Dress’. The brainchild of creative director John Galliano, the ensemble entrenched the show in style history books forever. Let’s walk down memory lane and relive these spectacles…
Chanel Bombay-Paris Collection, 2011
Karl Lagerfeld derived inspiration from Indian royalty for the brand’s Pre-Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection, which was unveiled at Grand Palais. The Chanel team reimagined a Maharaja’s tea party in a mythical Mahal. Tables were set for high tea, and there was even a small CC-decorated steam train, complete with crystal decanters for guests. Staying true to Chanel’s design philosophy of borrowing elements from men’s wardrobes, Karl looked at Indian men’s closets, which informed his mood board. Sherwani-like jackets, Maang teekas, Naths, Jodhpur-inspired leggings, along with Indian Baroque jewellery made this one of the most exuberant outings from the French luxury house.
Chanel Cruise, 2014
Titled ‘the Orient to the Occident’, Karl Lagerfeld offered a thoughtful homage to Arab culture while still retaining the inherent Frenchness of the house in a salon-style presentation. The show opened with a model sporting kohl rimmed eyes with gold accents, sporting a crescent headband and holding a bejewelled hand mirror. An interplay of tweed, lamé and 12th-century tile prints and Aladdin slippers evoked the desert dunes, sun and the sand. The show closed with a guest appearance by Hudson Kroenig, the toddler of Lagerfeld’s then muse model, Brad Kroenig.
Versace Autumn/Winter, 2018
Donatella Versace offered homage to the house founder and her brother Gianni with a celebratory showcase which brought back all the house’s archival insignias–Baroque, Greco-Roman iconography, animal prints, aquatic motifs, among others. The show began with a voiceover speaking about Gianni’s legacy and how he empowered women with his singular vision and the transformative power of clothing. The show ended with the supers and house muses–Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista taking to the catwalk together in chainmail dresses and bringing back memories of Versace’s Autumn/Winter 1991 show.
Gucci Cruise, 2019
Each showcase at Gucci by the then artistic director Alessandro Michele was a love letter to magpies, dreamers and poets. Picture widows clutching flowers in embroidered velvet gowns and capes, kids played rock stars wearing tiger-striped, narrow pants and fluorescent belt bags. The guests—models—of the rave walked the Promenade Des Alyscamps after dark in Arles, in looks designed for a party in a cemetery imagined by Michele. Pan, the mascot from Hotel Chateau Marmont, appeared on laundry-style shoulder bags, and scarves featuring the Flora print wrapped intricate hairstyles inspired by the end of the Roman Empire.
Richard Quinn Autumn/Winter, 2018
One of the most talked about shows on the London Fashion Week calendar, Richard Quinn’s Autumn/Winter 2018 show saw Queen Elizabeth II making her first and only appearance at a fashion show in 2018. She sat in the front row next to Vogue’s Anna Wintour and, following the show, the late monarch presented Richard Quinn with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, honouring emerging British talent in fashion. Her presence at the event was a significant moment for both the fashion industry and the royal family.
Louis Vuitton Cruise, 2019
Held atop a French hilltop, in the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2019 show celebrated the allure of the arts, artists and individual expression. As guests took their places in the sculpture garden of the Fondation Maeght–a museum of modern art, where works by artists such as Giacometti and Miró framed the stylish proceedings–the show started with a voiceover piece extracted from stylist Grace Coddington’s memoir and read by the house muse Jennifer Connelly. In fact, Nicolas Ghesquiere cast several flame-haired models who evoked Coddington’s spirit. Statement blazers clashed with ruffled cuffs and collars, and slips were offset by structured mini dresses.
Balenciaga Autumn/Winter, 2020
Balenciaga has always been about disruptive showcases–from creating post-apocalyptic sets to casting off-kilter models. The brand’s Autumn/Winter 2020 was staged on a purposefully flooded catwalk to bring attention to the threat of climate change and rising sea levels. Set within the Cité du Cinema film studio complex in Paris, the brand show took place on a central runway submerged under water, which was surrounded by an oblong amphitheatre of seats. Although only a few centimetres deep, this water created the illusion of an almost bottomless abyss at the centre of the show. The first three, most sought-after, rows of seating were also partially engulfed by water. This meant attendees had to watch from further back, at a slight distance from the spectacle.
Prada Autumn/Winter, 2012
One of the strongest menswear showcases at Milan Fashion Week that season, Miuccia Prada toyed with two key wardrobe themes: tailored suits and outerwear. A-list Hollywood actors, including Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody, Willem Defoe, Jamie Bell and Tim Roth walk a red, white and black carpet, alongside regular catwalk models. Meanwhile, quotes about “role play” and “a cinematic character study subverting male archetypes and formal codes of dress” appeared in the show notes.
Coperni Spring/Summer, 2023
Supermodel Bella Hadid broke the internet during Coperni’s Spring/Summer 2023 offering. The model stepped onstage in nude underwear, only for a team of technicians to spray a dress onto her body using web-like fabric invented by Fabrican Ltd. An assistant then sliced a leg slit into the cutting-edge piece and removed the straps from the model’s shoulders before she walked the runway. The incredible moment instantly went viral online.
Givenchy Fall, 2015
Riccardo Tisci had the Victorian Chola girl on his mood board, and hence he sent out a glam Gothic outing with models sporting face jewellery. The line-up was a delicious set of velvet devoré dresses, Gothic red furs, and nipped-waist black tailcoats. The designer superimposed his love for black and all things Gothic with street cred. Despite the tough beauty and urban influences, the collection was also imbued with hints of Goth romance. There were luscious coats and velvet dresses with Victorian prints (some embroidered with a Catholic cross in the centre), dramatic peplum coats, flowy dresses with sheer inserts or medieval corsets to show off the body, and a final series of finely beaded gowns and jackets with couture-like quality.
Thierry Mugler Autumn/Winter, 1995
Bold, game-changing and futuristic–Thierry Mugler’s Autumn/Winter 1995 show was a visual feast. Held at the Cirque d’Hiver in Paris, it showcased models in incredibly sculpted, avant-garde ensembles embodying sharp silhouettes, exaggerated shoulders, and theatrical corsetry. Aligning fetishistic elements with sci-fi influences, the line-up offered a mix of shiny metallics, PVC, leather, and body-hugging latex. Supermodels Naomi Campbell and Eva Herzigová set the ramp ablaze, making it even more memorable.
Chanel Spring/Summer, 2020
Virginie Viard offered a light, youthful take on the classic Chanel codes by staging a showcase on a set mimicking the grey Parisian rooftops. Viard’s Chanel girls strutted down the ramp in an array of tweed rompers, patch-pocketed mini jumpsuits and dresses printed with the city of lights prints. However, there was a bit of an anti-climax as YouTuber Marie Benoliele, best known as Marie S’Infiltre, gatecrashed the show and inserted herself into the line-up of models during the finale. Gigi Hadid, who was also part of the show, escorted her off the runway. After this incident, the Chanel team amped up their security for future shows.
Celine Spring/Summer, 2019
Hedi Slimane knows how to turn a fashion show into a rave replete with Glam Rock groupie girls, musicians, film stars and rock royalty. For his much-anticipated Celine debut, the designer/photographer created a noir rectangular show space at Les Invalides on the city’s Left Bank, just in front of the Dôme des Invalides. Guests included Karl Lagerfeld, Lady Gaga, and Virgil Abloh, while waiters served Celine-branded champagne. After the lights went down, a duo of drummers emerged on the runway, followed by the appearance of a huge black box in the middle of the space that shifted to reveal a totally mirrored interior, catching the light as it moved. The foot-tapping soundtrack was provided by La Femme’s Marlon Magnee and Sacha Got, with model Grace Hartzel, who was also spotted in the front row.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer, 2012
Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2012 show, dreamed up by Marc Jacobs, was an enchanting spectacle that stood out as one of the most memorable fashion presentations of the decade. Held at the Cour Carrée of the Louvre in Paris, the show opened with a whimsical, all-white carousel as its centrepiece, with models perched on the horses as it slowly rotated. Imbued with innocence and fantasy, the staging beautifully complemented the ethereal vibe of the collection. One of the most memorable showcases by Marc Jacobs, who helmed creative reign then at the storied luxury house.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer, 2020
How to capture the fashion set’s elusive attention? No one understands that better than Jacquemus, whose Spring/Summer 2020 show literally broke the internet. Staged in a scenic lavender field in Provence, which made for a vibrant, natural backdrop, it had a viral IG moment. Embodying a sunny South of France aesthetic, the collection featured relaxed, earthy tones and bright pops of pink, yellow, and blue, with airy silhouettes, oversized blazers, flowing dresses, and playful details. All in all, a poem to the effortless, sun-kissed elegance and Mediterranean charm.
Hussein Chalayan Autumn/Winter, 2000
Hussein Chalayan’s Autumn/Winter 2000 show explored technology and nature. Held at the British Museum, it amalgamated innovative designs with historical references. The pièce de résistance was a transmogrifying skirt that dramatically changed shape and silhouette through advanced technology that had everyone in awe. The skirt, integrated with LED lights, evolved throughout the show, reflecting Chalayan’s cutting-edge and visionary approach to mixing high fashion with virtuoso design and performance art.
Chanel Autumn/Winter, 2014
For the storied French luxury house’s Autumn/Winter 2014 showcase, Karl Lagerfeld created a faux supermarket at the Grand Palais. Blending high fashion with everyday practicality, the showcase was a cheeky spin on luxury and celebrated a charming clash of contrasts–sublime with ridiculous, high with low. Chanel girls walked through aisles of meticulously arranged products, showcasing luxe, tailored coats, chic skirts, and elegant dresses in a palette of tweeds, metallics, and rich hues. Karl juxtaposed the classic Chanel sophistication with a playful FMCG touch.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer, 2020
Anthony Vaccarello has time and again created magic with his Saint Laurent showcases, mostly against the glittering backdrop of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. For Spring/Summer 2020, the designer had Naomi Campbell sashaying down the runway as the illuminated lights of the Eiffel Tower glistened in the background. Decidedly come-hither tailoring comprising thigh-grazing pinstripe shorts was styled with waistcoats, and va-va-voom leopard-print dresses came with daring cut-outs. Maxi skirts, which came in pleated, metallic gold lamé, were one of the highlights.
Dior Couture Fall/Winter, 2012
Raf Simons’ debut collection for Dior at Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012-13 season in Paris was hugely anticipated. Pretty understandable as he was filling in John Galliano’s shoes. And Simons didn’t disappoint, presenting a bravura collection sending out a tuxedo jacket informed by Dior’s iconic Bar jacket. Style.com hailed it as “one of the most distinctive silhouettes in fashion”. Modernising Dior’s archival silhouettes, Simons presented a full-skirted classic ball gown truncated at the peplum, while its skirt was swapped with black silk cigarette pants. Also, the decor of the show remains one of the biggest talking points even today, as Dior had covered the show area walls sheathed in millions of blooms, which offered a vibrant contrast to the refined, pared-back couture Simons showcased.