The Peacock Magazine traces the evolution of peplum over decades…
By Manish Mishra
Peplum’s origin in fashion history can be traced back to Ancient Greece: The word “peplum” is derived from the Greek word “peplos,” which was a tunic worn by the Ancient Greeks in 500 BC—comprising a folded sheet sheathed around the body and knotted at the mid-waist to emphasise shape. This created a creasing effect around the waist which would cause the fabric to spill out at the hips. A significant example of this is a Louvre statue from 5 BC, which depicts the goddess Athena wearing peplos carved in stone. During the Renaissance period, both men and women embraced it with elan. By the Middle Ages, bodycon hip-length jackets were favoured by men which featured dainty peplums protruding from the waist and underscoring the hips. Moreover, the ornate bodices of gowns that aristocrats favoured often came accented with a range of peplums falling over full skirts. By the turn of the nineteenth-century, women opted for peplum-style overskirts which facilitated movement imparting ease. Some fashion historians also credit the popularity of the peplum to the craze for the bustle—which consisted of fabric accumulated around the bottom for exaggerated volume.
Peplum timeline: From Dior to Thierry Mugler
By mid-century, peplums made a comeback in the late 1940s with the post–World War II styles celebrating an hourglass body shape. Back then, couturiers experimented with peplum detailings in collections entrenching it on the radar. That’s when Christian Dior dazzled the fashion world with his game-changing “New Look”
which redefined and refined peplum style. Later on this was imitated by high street brands and peplum became an everyday fashion detail. However, it was during the eighties when peplum gained prominence yet again with the popularity of power suits which often featured a bodycon, nipped-at-the-waist jacket with shoulder pads and a peplum. Thierry Mugler pioneered the nipped-in peplum jackets of the era. During the early aughts, peplums came back with a work-appropriate appeal seen on corporates.
As they say, fashion is cyclical and the peplum is back on the style map this season. Just take a look at any red carpet event this season and you can’t overlook the peplum craze. The likes of Dua Lipa and Kate Hudson both wore peplum gowns during Oscars weekend. The silhouette still stayed true to the classic peplum flare, but the proportions felt supple and theatrical—less structured, more sculptural.
Even last year, global cinestars served some iconic peplum looks. At the Met gala last year, Priyanka Chopra broke the internet in a custom Balmain by Olivier Rousteing, reconciling the precision of traditional menswear with uninhibited feminine glamour. Priyanka’s white halter-neck gown, sprinkled with black polka dots, was cinched at the waist with a slim belt and fastened with a line of black buttons. Adding to the look’s structure, she layered a matching polka-dot blazer with peplum detail which had a nipped-in waist. Styled by Mimi Cuttrell, the look beautifully followed the met memo of dandyism.
Another noteworthy peplum look was seen on Simone Ashley at the F1: The Movie premiere. A gold sleeveless look from Balmain’s Fall 2025 collection, complete with a sculptural, molded bodice and a peplum that felt like urban armour. This couture masterpiece was a cross between nostalgia and edge, trading the printed, often ruffled peplums of yesteryear for one that spoke through its fabrication. Ashley’s dress was crafted in a 3-D woven technique that mimics the appearance of crocodile skin. Paired with tousled curls, glowing skin, and minimal gold jewellery, Ashley proved that the once-polarising peplum can feel not only modern but also downright futuristic when done correctly.
Peplum’s growing fan club: From Nicole Kidman to Anna Wintour
Cut to 2026 and the timeless peplum is being reimagined with precision and exactitude. From Chanel and Dior to Alexander McQueen and Falguni Shane Peacock—peplum is enjoying the spotlight. For Dior’s Fall 2026 showcase presented at the Tuileries in Paris, artistic director Jonathan Anderson riffed on the 18th-century codes and explored the idea of formal dressing with deconstructed frock coats, peplum jackets and bustle skirts in candied almond shades, Chantilly lace and metallic jacquards. Dior’s peplum jackets not only have a female fan following but men like Harry Styles have warmed up to them too. At the Grammys, the singer and style savant looked suave and sophisticated in a tailored Dior grey Bar jacket with a nipped-in waist and black lapels, worn sans shirt.
A recent example is of Canadian actress Rachel McAdams who rocked a peplum silhouette at her Hollywood Walk of Fame Star ceremony. Nicole Kidman’s Chanel look featuring a feathered peplum comes to mind too. American ballet dancer and writer Misty Copelands looked stunning in a ballet-inspired jacket by David Koma featuring rows of soft peplum detailing crafted with tulle. In fact, Anna Wintour herself wore a peplum jacket by Jonathan Anderson from Dior’s Fall Winter 2026 collection at the Oscars while presenting an award. If Anna embraces a trend, you know it’s a real deal!
Whether it’s high street brands like ZARA and M&S or designer luxe labels like Simone Rocha and Proenza Schouler—almost everyone has served their own versions of peplum—from cardigans to tops to structured jackets.
FSP’s peplum epiphany!
Over the years, Falguni Shane Peacock has served an array of adventurous peplum looks on the red carpet realised with the house’s signature maximalist and exuberant approach. FSP’s new-age peplum isn’t ornamental, it’s intentional. It brings the focus back to the waist, not as a soft detail, but as a point
of structure and control. Not too long ago at Cannes, FSP’s muse Aishwarya Rai Bachchan looked like an extraterrestrial mermaid in their iridescent aqua metallic gown which had a pseudo-peplum flare emphasising a strong waist and exaggerated hips. Another iconic FSP peplum look which comes to mind is of Mrunal Thakur, who looked angelic in a one-shoulder strappy white gown which had cascading ruffles and feathers creating a soft peplum illusion. Moreover, the design house has dressed global pop sensations like Jennifer Lopez and Katy Perry in micro peplum corsets for their tours and performances.
At Falguni Shane Peacock, there has been a remarkable shift towards silhouettes that are engineered rather than embellished. The evolved peplum flatters the body, frames it, and then moves away from it, creating a sense of tension between restraint and release.